Dublin Day 4: "Don't be so rude!"
We woke this
morning after hitting the snooze button many times. But once we pulled back the
blinds to see a cloudless blue sky, we were happy we got up eventually. The air
was brisk, but when the sun shone on us we were never cold. It was absolutely
the perfect day to explore the city of Dublin and some of its most historic
landmarks!
I did not talk
about yesterday much, since all we did was go to class at 8:30AM, break for an
hour lunch at Insomnia (pro tip: don’t try the matcha latte, go for the chai
tea), and then back to the hotel to read. We did go out to The Stag’s Head
historic pub as well as Peader Kearney’s for some sessions, but they ended up
being a bit boring and touristy for us. We went back home, got ready for bed,
and slept until we got up this morning. Not a horrible day, as it was a rainy
night in Dublin and the rainwater made everything sparkle in the streetlights.
There was a sense of calm settled over the city as we walked back around 10:30.
Little to no traffic, empty sidewalks, and the steady sound of rain hitting the
pavement as we let our hair frizz and our feet splash. It wasn’t busy, but it
wasn’t bad.
This
morning, we got up around 7:45 (after hitting the snooze button many times to
catch up on some much needed sleep). Breakfast was wonderful again, though I forgot
to put a piece of cheese on my egg and toast. Diana and I also wrapped up a
croissant to go, just in case we needed something before lunch or we ended up
touring into the lunch hour. Then, after getting ready, we set out on a
roundabout way to Dublin Castle. Walking Dublin in the morning rush is
manageable in a small group, but nearly impossible in a large one. There are
just enough people to make the narrow, uneven sidewalks feel full, and the
streets jam up very quickly with bikes, motor scooters, cars, and box trucks. Because
of the intense acceptance of j-walking and the length of the lighted pedestrian
crosswalks, a lot of time is eliminated by ignoring the law. But when we have a
professor who has never been here leading the way for 12 students, she is
hesitant to cross on a red, even if there is literally no one coming. Despite
it feeling like hours to get there, Dublin Castle was positively glowing in the
morning light. Not a cloud in the sky, and it was perfect. We got a guided tour
through the surviving medieval portions of the structure and an accessible
section of the River Poddle—a now underground river that flows through the city
and was once used by Vikings as a port off of the River Liffey. Seeing these
ancient features was a great reminder of how long people have been walking
where we are walking, doing what we are doing. That is something that I’ve
really tried to appreciate while I’ve been here, since America is a relatively
young country, and Wisconsin is a relatively young state. We lack the history
that steeps this country’s bones. I revel in the chance to see the evidence of
long-lasting human cleverness, hard work, and ingenuity.
Once we saw the castle,
we walked across the way to the Royal Chapel, which is singularly the most beautiful
chapel I have ever been in. St. Patrick’s and Christ Church were gorgeous, but
the Royal Chapel was used by the Royal Viceroy of England, not simply the
common residents of Dublin. This means that literally every surface, no matter
how simple, was covered in a bust, intricate woodwork, or stunning decorative
architecture. Local Irish artists, commissioned by the state to promote Irish
art, made all the dark oak woodworking and all of the busts and stonework
inside. Fun fact from our tour guide: the columns were made to look like stone,
but were actually constructed from plaster-covered wood so that the building
would not cave on the unsteady foundation. When tapped, they sound hollow! The
flawless organ presides over the room with a benevolent stare and a silent
watch. The warm morning sun poured through the windows and illuminated every
aspect of beauty in the room. It was surreal to be able to see that room on
that day, with every inch of hard work exposed and appreciated by all of us.
All of us then walked
across the courtyard to the Georgian addition to Dublin Castle: the elegant
State Apartment complex, home of the Viceroys. A collection of around ten
elaborately filigreed rooms are on display for tourists to walk through at
their own pace, and they are something to behold. Every ceiling is vaulted.
Every surface is covered in gold, crystal, or some combination of both. Every
room exudes the undeniable luxury of Victorian era monarchy with style and
grace. Particular favorites of mine included the dining room, the small
circular room in powder blue, and the other green circular room with three huge
windows. But really, the entire thing is gorgeous and I would highly recommend
getting a tour of the whole thing, or even just walking through alone like we
did. Just being able to see these places still standing is worth it.
Taking a small
detour outside to enjoy the endless sunshine so rare to these parts, we all
trekked out to the Dubh Linn Gardens—the old Gaelic name for Dublin, pronounced
“doov-leen”. Stone walls surrounded
the park and gave it a cozy feel. The green grass shined in the mid-day sun, a
light breeze followed us as we walked the small brick paths. And the magnolia
tree had already started blooming! What a wonderful way to relax in nature and
take a break from touring for a little bit.
Next,
we made our way back down Dame Street toward Trinity College. To avoid the long
lines at the library museum, we waited until around 1PM to see the Book of
Kells and the famous Long Room of the Old Library. After the quick walk from
one to the other, we stood in the “q” for about 15 minutes before walking
through the Book of Kells exhibition and the library. Learning about the
binding, illustration, and calligraphy of the book was fascinating. Though the
book itself was not really open to an exquisite page today (they show a different
page every day), it was stunning to see the artistry and know that multiple
people spent their whole lives making it.
But the real
treat, for myself at least, came after the book, when we got to see the Long
Room. This still-functioning library has been a part of Trinity for centuries
and houses some of the oldest books in the country and the world. Instantly
after entry, the smell of antique books floods my nostrils and I breathe it in
deeply. This is my oxygen. The two-story room is entirely paneled in beautiful
dark wood, separated into multiple rows and catalogued by alphabet. All of the
books can still be used and checked out by Trinity College students or
scholars, but the books must be taken to an enclosed reading room and cannot be
exposed to ink pens, food, or water. Extreme care has been taken to preserve
not only the books, but the room itself—and that is something that I find
incredibly necessary to promoting learning. To be able to touch and interact
with artifacts from hundreds of years ago is a priceless opportunity that
should remind us all not only how short our time is, but also how long our
lives and legacies can be remembered through the appreciation of history and
learning. That is what I strive to remember and perform in my life every day.
After returning
to the (normal-smelling, unfortunately) gift shop, Diana and I sat on the quad
to share a quick croissant before the group headed over to the National Museum
of Ireland. This is part of a museum collective in Dublin, also including the
Natural History Museum, the Art Museum, and a few others. The museum houses
mostly fascinating human-related artifacts from the Vikings and pre-medieval
Ireland, and provides information about the evolution of Ireland as a country
and as an ecosystem. Though I always love learning more about manufactured
items throughout history like medieval church craftwork, Viking longboats, and many,
many weapons, I most enjoyed and would highly recommend the collection of four
bog bodies. Yes, literal bodies. The photos above are real people, preserved
for centuries thanks to the rare processes of the bog environment. The four men
together have preserved teeth, bones, skin, finger nails on compete hands,
intact hair styles, and even internal organs which suggest what they ate before
they died. This is absolutely incredible and fascinating science! I am so happy
that I got a chance to see the exhibit.
Our teachers
released us after touring the museum, and as it was around 2PM, we decided to
head straight to lunch rather than go on to the Natural History Museum across
the way. We walk back up Kildare Street to our favorite Insomnia and got a
quick chai tea and sandwich each. On the way back to the hotel, we made a pop
into Boots to get some makeup with a 10% off coupon we received. I got a great
haul of two pastel pink Barry M nail polish, some rose colored Bourjois blush
and dark nude velvet matte lip color, and a Soap & Glory Supercat liner. So
far I have tried the lipstick and the nail polish, and I love both of them.
Plus, Boots has a lot of coupons and sales!
After picking up those
things, we walked back to our hotel via the canal again. It was such a nice and
sunny day that we decided to head up to our room, grab our books, and go back
down to sit on the benches and read. This wonderful experience lasted only about
fifteen minutes before the sun went under and the wind picked up and we got
fairly chilly. We then moved back across the street to our hotel lobby, where
there is a lovely little glass-enclosed corner that made it look like we were
outside when really we were nice and cozy.
Dinner came
about four hours later. Mushroom soup, hake with tomato and zucchini sauce, and
an unexpectedly delicious cappuccino and walnut cake. I had doubts about the
dessert, but man, am I glad I ordered it. Another delicious meal to round out a
great day. Now all we need is some sleep before heading off to class again in
the morning. We also have plans to go to a music shop and the Natural History
Museum tomorrow in between class and dinner. Should be lots of fun! Now I need
to take advantage of my night off and actually get some sleep.
Thanks for
reading, everyone. It is so exciting to me to be reaching out to so many people about my incredible experiences. I hope you are enjoying my chronicles!
♥
photo credit Diana Cleveland
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