Cork Day 6: The Search for Ross and Unusual Pringles,
aka St. Patrick's Day
We
have finally gotten to St. Patrick’s Day—perhaps the most important day in
Irish culture, here and around the world. All week, local businesses have been
prepping their storefronts with Irish flags and banners, gearing up for the
city-wide, weekend-long celebration that happens each year. Today, I got to
experience St. Patrick’s Day in Ireland firsthand, and it was a little
different than I expected.
After living
through this infamous holiday in both the US and Ireland, I can honestly say
that it is still not my favorite celebration. Many Americans want to use it as
an excuse to open the pubs at noon and not leave until early into the morning,
but that is definitely not my style. I was hoping being in Ireland would change
that a bit—maybe at least add a seriousness that the American version lacks.
But, alas, nothing is much different other than the parade aspect. Other than
that, pubs are still packed with tourists hoping to get an “authentic” Irish
experience.
As excited as we
were for the festivities to begin, we had to go to class in the morning and get
our learning done. Then, as soon as lunchtime hit, we started to prepare for
the taxing time ahead. We started off the afternoon with the Cork City parade.
Irish and non-Irish people alike gathered around the street decked out in
green. Irish flag motifs showed up on hats, faces, hair clips, capes, and even
on air horns. It appeared to me kind of like a Fourth of July parade, except there
were more tourists. No one comes to America to “experience” a Fourth of July
parade! Nonetheless, there were many loud and proud Irish kids, teens, and
adults there to cheer on the walkers as they passed by.
Though it took a
little while to get it going, the main features of the parade were pretty
great. To begin, the various military and special forces marched by with what looked to be real rifles with bayonets, and very large cannon blasters pulled by trucks. After them, there were motorcycles, marching bands, various city organizations, and
sports teams, as well as American and other cultural groups usually including
cultural music. For some reason, there was a fire department from Amarillo,
Texas dressed in full Scottish Highland garb, complete with bagpipes. Also, a mediocre marching band from Colorado...? As weird
as that was, some of the other groups had some cool drumming and songs as they
walked by. My favorite was what looked to be a military band of some kind,
which was very talented and played some great music. My favorite part, though, was obviously the miniature antique fire truck replica pulled by the miniature horse. Cutest parade horse ever!
The
art for the parade was also pretty neat. They did a lot of period dressing,
since this year is the centennial of the 1916 Easter Rising, which started the
independence of the Irish Republic. Banners labeled with leaders of the Rising
passed by one by one, accompanied by an actor to play them. These leaders all
died for the establishment of the Republic of Ireland, so this part of the
parade was taken somewhat seriously. Following these men was a group of period
women, meant to represent the women who helped the Rising but have gone
unrecognized in history for their efforts. A theater next to our hotel is
performing a play called Sisters of the
Rising every night this week to call attention to their heroic efforts. There
was also a hilarious skit on Irish weather. It started with the sun passing by,
followed by chasing rainclouds and large water droplets, and ending with a
beautiful purple moon flanked by silver stars. In addition, there was a Redhead Convention and an
extensive skit on music and literature, the two main art industries Ireland
holds pride in. They had a giant guitar and a house made of books, as well as
dancing, fiddling foxes!
Even though we
did not stay for the whole parade, it surprised me that there were no real
Irish dance troupes or traditional musicians involved. There was an adorable
group of young bohdrán players, as well as a host of modern dance clubs, but no
blocks of Irish dancers like in an American St. Patrick’s Day presentation.
Instead, there were a variety of local groups that wanted to participate, much
like the aforementioned Fourth of July parade. But once we left and headed to a
pub to try to find some trad music, the Fourth of July comparison ended. No
more was the street equally lined with both Irish and non-Irish
parade-goers—the pubs were completely taken over by tourists. Bands played at
top volume in order to impress the American, Spanish, and Itatlian tourists.
They played covers of songs I did not know, and was not particularly impressed
by.
The doors said “trad sessions”, but these were not really such. One pub had
a very impressive flute, accordion, and fiddle trio, but it was broadcast
throughout the winding building through loud, obnoxious speakers and streaming
TV screens. This is not really an authentic traditional music experience—it is
a far cry from not only our fabulously amazing session at Mother Rielly’s, but
even the intimate local session we had at An Spailpín Fánach just the other
night. Nothing in those places was crowded, even if things were snug. Today,
all three pubs we attempted to visit either so little room we just walked right
back out the door, so full that we found a corner in the back and then gave up,
or was literally packed wall to wall and eventually ended up ejecting us
completely. Plus, imagine the population completely intoxicated and singing
loudly along to the band, or spilling drinks all over people whilst trying to
move around. That’s not fun at all, and especially if all we wanted to do was
listen to music.
At first, I thought that the majority of these people were
Irish, dancing to some sort of weird Celtic rock music. After all, the musicians inhabiting the stage were micced, but included an accordion, a banjo, a guitar, and a drum set. Not too far off from something like a trad group. But the closer we
listened, all of these dancers excitedly bouncing around, wearing any
combination of green, white, and orange, were indeed tourists singing to
covered country songs. The desire of
American/French/Spanish/Italian/insert-country-here tourists to experience St.
Patrick’s Day in Ireland takes over the celebration of Irish culture, ultimately degrading it
into an all-day drinking party. We decided not to even go out again after that,
since nothing was really interesting to us. That American tackiness is not
something we were interested in experiencing, so we just left. So far, I have
been very underwhelmed by the St. Patrick’s Day events here. I know all of the
intricate anthropological reasons behind such a degradation, but it still makes
me a little bit sad that no one is really appreciating the day for the
historical significance of a country’s independence—least of all the tourists,
whom the day is apparently catered to. The whole system seems a little
backward, and I feel bad that tourists have ruined a little bit of potential
cultural education that could be happening. Who knows if they even know what
they are doing, or what they are experiencing.
Either way, the
festivities continue all weekend. We are all hoping that the crowds die down a
lot over the next two days, so we can at least get into a pub and find a seat
to listen to some music. Otherwise, we will have to wait until we get all the
way to Galway to hear some more great session music. That thought makes me sad,
but I fear it might be the case. Here’s hoping that An Spailpín Fánach and Sin
É both clear out by tomorrow afternoon… wish us luck! Maybe I can even find
myself some corned beef and cabbage.
♥
No comments:
Post a Comment